Skåne, last outpost in Sweden

As there wasn’t very much to do in Kristianopel this time of the year we got to bed early and started our sail towards Skåne (the most southern part of Sweden). We headed for the town Simrishamn, an 80 nm sail. We started the day with some sailing but it was mostly closed haul sailing, which is not Anne-Mon’s favorite, it is hard to maintain speed while having a high point. Our boat is more of a beam-reach boat. But we pushed on for a couple of hours and when the wind died we started the engine. At that point it was completely calm, but shortly after the waves started to build up and not long after we had pretty big and steep waves against us. The waves together with pretty strong gusts made it hard for us to maintain speed and in some waves we almost stopped (or at least that was what it felt like). After a couple of hours in these uncomfortable waves we finally reached Simrishamn and were able to moor. We got straight to bed really tired after a long day with a tough ending.

Picture just after the waves calmed down a bit on the way to Simrishamn, already a bit tired and still pretty far to go until we where in the harbour.

The following day, Friday September 5th, we spent the day fixing a lot of stuff, sorting some of the things we just throw into the boat right before departure. We also took a well deserved shower and took a walk around the town. In the evening Petra’s sister came to visit and joined us for our sail to Kåseberga the day after. And she stood for the sailing trip’s first throw up 🙂

On our way from Simrishamn to Kåseberga.

When we arrived to Kåseberga we met up with Petra’s parents again (as they live in Skåne), ate lunch at a cafe by the sea and walked up to Ale’s stones, a megalith monument in the shape of a ship, probably dated to the Nordic Iron Age. They are not sure why it was made from the beginning but some of the theories are grave monument of cult center or a sun calendar.

Ale’s Stones with the sea in the background.

The cliffs right by Ale’s Stones. It was pretty windy on our day of visit.

The following day we set off again, this time towards Gislövs läge, just outside Trelleborg, which would be our last stop in Sweden before heading towards Denmark.

Exploring Öland

After our bad night in Harstena we got up early on Sunday morning, August 30th, to head for the island Öland. The sea was still quite rolly after last nights strong winds and we both felt a little bit of seasickness (no throwing up, though). We started sailing but after a while the wind died, but the waves did not so we started the engine and headed for the north part of Öland. We arrived late in the evening and met up with Petra’s parents who had come to visit us there. We ate dinner at one restaurant that was still open. This is probably a pretty busy village in the high season months but now when we got there it was pretty empty.

The following day we set of to explore some parts of Öland, the lighthouse on the northern tip and a cool pine forest.

Almost at the lighthouse Långe Jan.

Cows on the beach.
A shipwreck on the beach near Trollskogen.
At the cool pine forest Trollskogen. The pine trees has gotten their funny shapes due to many years of string winds.

After lunch we set sail south and arrived to the village Sandvik. It was same here as in Byxelkrok, really empty and lots of open spots in the marina.

Anne-Mon in the marina in Sandvik.

We didn’t stay long in Sandvik and started our sail to Borgholm early in the morning. We had a really good and fast sail to Borgholm, averaged about 7 knots and for one second with the help of a wave we reached 10.4 knots. We arrived just before lunch and spent the afternoon exploring more of Öland together with Petra’s parents. We drove through the Unesco World Heritage site Alvaret on southern Öland and visited an ancient castle.

At the ancient castle, Eketorp.
They had rebuilt the caste to look like it did once upon a time.

We drove back to Borgholm and took a look at the castle ruin and ate a nice dinner with Petra’s parents.

Borgholm caste ruins.

The next morning, on Wednesday september 2nd, we set sail again, this time we prepared for a longer sail towards Kristianopel on the mainland. We had really good winds this day as well and made good speed south.

Ölandsbron in sight.

When we arrived to Kristianopel it was rainy and we barely saw any people in the village. It was a really cozy place but as the villages on Öland (with the exception of Borgholm) this place is probably more fun in July/early August.

Walking around a rainy and empty Kristianopel.

 

Departure day!

On Wednesday 26th of August we were finally ready for our departure 🙂 Before lunch we worked hard getting everything ready and by 3pm we were ready to leave central Stockholm.

Departure out of central Stockholm.

On our way out of Stockholm our ship friends on Skeppsholmen honked, really cool! The wind was against us this day and we had plans to eat dinner with Thomas parents at their country house so we only went by engine the first day. We arrived at Vindö later in the evening and had a nice dinner.

The following day we set course south through the archipelago accompanied for a while by Thomas parents and some neighbors in their boats. We set the sails and this was the first time we tested our “new” genoa and main. They both felt really good and a real improvement compared to the old sails.

We sailed most of the day, but in the afternoon the wind died and  we started the engine. Pretty late in the evening we arrived to Nåttarö where we anchored for the night. We didn’t go ashore to explore the island but we really need to get back to this island again sometime in the future. Early in the morning on Friday the 28th we left Nåttarö and started to head out of Stockholm archipelago. In the morning we sailed but when we reached Landsort (the lighthouse at the southern tip of Stockholm archipelago) we started the engine to be able to make it to Harstena in Gryt archipelago. It was sunny at least and on the way we were able to do some small work, for example sorting screws:

We anchored at the bay Flisfjärden in Harstena and took our dinghy ashore to walk around the island.

Anchored at Harstena.

A lot of fish in the water.

Saturday was extremely rainy and windy with gale warnings in the Baltic sea so we stayed at anchor in Flisfjärden which turned out to be a terrible idea. The night towards Sunday the wind turned with almost gale forces that hit our anchorage. We were up late to watch the anchor, ready to turn on the engine if something should happen. Fortunately nothing happened, our anchor and everything lasted the night.

On Sunday morning we went up really early and started our journey to the island Öland. But more about that in our next blog post 🙂

 

Sailing back to Stockholm city

During the weekend we went sailing for the last time this year, which was sailing back to Stockholm city for the winter. We have had her further out in the archipelago during the summer so that we didn’t have to sail the long distance from the city every time we wanted to go sailing. It is approximately 20-25 NM to sail from central Stockholm to reach the first nice archipelago islands. There are some places in between, but they are not as good as the ones you find further out.

But the summer is definitely over now and during the winter we want the boat closer so that we can finish everything we need to do before our departure.

We started on Saturday by taking the bus to Anne-Mon together with one of our new sails, a furling genoa we found second hand. We bought two furling head sails, one genoa and one jib, and a cover for the furler for 450 SEK (47 USD, 42 EUR). They are all in good shape as well, so we were really lucky to find them! 🙂

We tried the new furling genoa on the furler, and after some time we were ready to set sail. The new sail immediately proved to be way much better than our old one. Both this one and the old one are still to small for us, so we have another genoa that we plan to buy which is bigger. Then we will use the one we just bought as a reserve and probably throw away the old one.

Sailing towards Stockholm
Sailing back to Stockholm.

It was pretty late when we left, and the sun sets early this time of the year. We had chosen a spot where we wanted to stay for the night, some islands just north of Vaxholm and west of Vårholma. We have been here before with the ship twice so we had a pretty okay feeling of the surroundings, therefore we decided to continue even though it got dark. It was our first time sailing with Anne-Mon in the dark, and it was pretty exiting to sail with the help from lighthouses and the dark contours of nearby islands. As we were close to the city we also saw some cruise ships on their way to Finland and Tallinn, but no one passed close to us during the evening.

We navigated in between the islands and managed to anchor towards land even though we had a really hard time seeing where we went. We ate dinner, watched a movie and went to bed.

We woke up the next day to grey weather but beautiful autumn colors.

The spot we chose for the night.

It ate breakfast and left right after, just when it started to rain…

Time to leave for the last leg. As you can see on the water we had some rain….

It was a slow sail on Sunday, barely no wind and a lot of tacking. But we sailed almost the entire way to the city, we took the sails down half an hour before sunset when we only had 1 NM to go. We were hungry and quite cold at that point after 7.5 hours of sailing, the first hours in autumn rain.

sailing stockholm
Passing the castle outside Vaxholm.
sailing stockholm
When getting closer to the city it is common with close encounters with the cruise ships. Not so fun while tacking!
Just outside the headland Blockhusudden on Djurgården close to the city. The sun finally breached through the thick clouds.
Sunset sailing towards Stockholm.

Eventually we reached our final destination. Now we will empty the boat and focus on boatwork! We have some exiting things ahead, just yesterday we bought an autopilot drive unit. Instead of buying a finished autopilot package, we buy components separately and write our own code for the control system. Perfect winter activity! We will write more about this later on, so stay tuned 🙂

If you want to read more about our previous boatwork, mostly plastic repair, rig preparations all blog post about our renovation can be found under the category Sailboat Renovation and to read about our engine overhaul, those blogposts can be found under the category Engine.

 

Autumn sail to Stora Nassa

During the weekend we decided to take a weekend sail to Stora Nassa, an island group in Stockholm archipelago. The weather was kind of cold and northerly winds around 7-9 m/s (14-18 knots) gusting up to 11-12 m/s (21-23 knots). We left work early on Friday and headed out to the boat and left as soon as possible.

A map of our autumn sail, blue is start position, red is Säck where we anchored Friday evening and yellow is Stora Nassa where we anchored Saturday, with a total distance sailed back and forth of 40 NM.

We have had a damage in our furling genoa, which we got fixed this week. We took the genoa and two other small headsails to Björn, a sailmaker in central Stockholm. He repaired the sails and took a look at them. We also got a lot of tips regarding sail care and sail theory in general. Can really recommend Björn if you need to repair your sails, link to his website can be found by clicking HERE.

Anyway, we set sail and departed to find a good place to stay for the night.

On our way to find a good spot to stay the first night out.

We ended up in the protected anchorage Säck, even though it was northerly winds we found a spot that was pretty protected.  We were all alone there, which is quite uncommon. Usually you have to fight for a spot in this very popular anchorage.

Säck a very popular and protected bay in Stockholm archipelago.

We anchored and started preparing dinner and starting our diesel heater, but not without trouble. After a while we got it working and let it run for a while during dinner.

After some issues getting the diesel heater to start we finally could eat some dinner.

We turned the diesel heater off during the night since we haven’t used it that much before. When we woke up on Saturday we had 8ºC (46ºF) inside the boat. We turned on the diesel heater and prepared breakfast.

Säck Stockholm archipelago
A cold but beautiful morning in Säck.

We didn’t hurry Saturday morning and did some small jobs before we left for Stora Nassa, like changing the halyard for the cutter stay, which we were gonna try out.

Finally we we were on our way to Stora Nassa, the wind was quite strong and there was the occasional rain and even some hail at one point. We had set the biggest of our jibs (we have three in total at the moment) on the cutter stay, and we made an average 5 knots on the way in 9 m/s (14 knots) winds. We took the northern route around Möja to reach Björkskärsfjärden, and here it is really important to keep an eye on the navigation as it is a maze of small islands and underwater rocks, as seen in the picture below.

This is what you have to navigate through at some places in the archipelago. A lot of small islands and underwater rocks everywhere.

We arrived at Stora Nassa and anchored at a very sheltered bay, even though the winds were strong outside it was completely calm where we were. There was no other boats in position. We anchored and ate a well deserved late lunch.

Stora Nassa
Anchored at Stora Nassa early October, all alone.

We took a tour around the little island we anchored at, the weather was quite dramatic and we spotted the wild Mouflon sheep that lives at Stora Nassa.

Stora Nassa
A storm is coming…
Mouflon sheep Stora Nassa
A quite bad picture of the Mouflon sheep that lives wild on Stora Nassa, but they were quite scared of us and we didn’t want to disturb them to much.

After our tour around the island we relaxed inside the sailboat and did some small boatwork, working with connecting the VHF antenna was one thing we did.

Sunday arrived and it was time to head home, we ate breakfast and set sail shortly after. On Björkskärsfjärden it was still quite windy so we tried our middle jib, which Björn, the sailmaker, had gone over, on the cutter stay. With that sail and a reefed main we sailed approximately 5-6 knots without cringing to much.

When we reached the bigger islands around Möja the wind died a bit so we un-reefed the main and took down the cutter stay jib and furled out the genoa instead. It last part was quite slower than the first, but the sun was shining. At one point when sailing downwind we tried the whisker pole for the first time, not for long, though, since the wind is constantly changing direction in Stockholm archipelago.

On our way back, sunny weather but still quite cold.

Soon we will sail back Anne-Mon to the city for the winter, which means we will focus more on the final preparations before our big sail. It also means that there will be more frequent blog posts here, since we have the boat closer.