After 4 nights in A Coruna we found a weather window to continue and as there was a lot of strong winds coming in later on we decided to skip the rest of the Spanish north-west coast and do an overnight sail to Portugal. Have we not been so late we had loved to explore this coastline but we really longed for getting to warmer latitudes and we didn’t want to get stuck.
It wasn’t the most comfortable night sail, it was rainy and not so comfortable waves and we where really happy when the sun started rising and morning came.
We arrived to Portugal and the town Viana do Castelo around lunch time and started taking a walk around the town, which was really pretty!
Later in the day the sailboats Svala and Freyja also arrived to Viana do Castelo and that evening we had an amazing boat crawl.
The following day we were a bit tired and it also rained a lot the entire day. We had a pretty chill day and did some small jobs, cleaning the boat and watched some series.
The next day the weather was better and we took a walk around town once more together with Svala and Freyja.
This time we walked up to the top of the hill, ate lunch at a local restaurant with the most amazing chocolate mousse dessert! It was so good!
We started preparing to leave Viana do Castelo, however there was some big swell coming in from the Atlantic and we had to decide if we could sail in those waves or if we would have to wait them out. But more about that in our next blog post.
After our Bay of Biscay crossing we arrived to the town A Coruna and as it was sunny and we were surprisingly fresh we decided to talk a walk around town.
After three days of sailing and a walk around the town we where really tired and went to bed early.
The morning after it was very rainy and we stayed inside the boat for most of the day and fixed a couple of things. One thing was to change oil in the engine again and also empty the water separator from the diesel filters and the tanks.
We also met up with another Swedish boat, Taipan, and had a nice tapas dinner with them as well as a game of paddle the day after.
Due to the weather we stayed 4 nights in A Coruna, and most of the time it rained a lot so we spent a lot of time in the boat cleaning and fixing stuff. When a new weather window came we decided that we would skip the rest of the northern coast of Spain and do a longer sail all the way to Portugal…
Finally the day had arrived and on October 15th we started sailing over the bay of Biscay. Normally all books say that you should sail over Biscay as early as possible, as the further into autumn you go the likelihood of bad weather increases.
As we departed late from Sweden (late August) we knew that finding a weather window for Biscay might be hard, but we hoped that we would make it across anyway. Today with the good and detailed weather forecast finding good weather info is easy, but still it might be unreliable. The weather system is complex and no forecast can be fully relied upon.
We checked the winds and waves several times every day for Biscay and for our weather window the forecast stayed the same up until our departure. This is a good sign and shows that the forecast might be correct. If the forecast where to change every day it is a sign that anything can happen and maybe not a good time to start a crossing. But our weather window was very stable so we felt safe starting our crossing.
We had also prepared a lot of food for our crossing, filled up our freezer with already cooked food so that we only would need to cook pasta or rice. We had made overnight oats with berries and peanut butter that we could only grab from the fridge for an easy breakfast. And finally made some energy bars, chocolate balls (to eat with the coffee) and warm drinks to make for the night. We downloaded podcasts so that we could have something to listen to while on night watch.
We left Roscoff about 9 in the morning after eating a steady breakfast. We sailed along the French coast all day, and around sunset we passed the strait between mainland France and the islands outside Brittany. It was dark when we headed out into the bay and we saw all the lights from France disappear behind us.
It was a still night with no wind and clear skies. We went by engine all night as we wanted to get over the bay as fast as possible. During the night we where accompanied by a lot of dolphins. Which was really cool. Later in the night we had phosphscenic light in the water making the dolphins look like torpedos around the boat. A very cool experience.
The morning started with a beautiful sunrise accompanied by the dolphins. We ate our first overnight oats with a cup of tea. It was a sunny day and the wind picked up so we could sail. We listened to music, a podcast, read and enjoyed the sun. We saw even more dolphins and sat on our bowsprit looking at them jumping around the boat. You get amazingly close to them when sitting there.
By evening the wind picked up even more (as we knew it would do). It was south-easterly winds so no huge Atlantic swell where gonna hit us, but still the waves got a bit big. We set the main on the third reef and changed from the genoa to a smaller headsail and started our night watch. For Biscay we tried with 2-3 hour shifts. It worked fine as it wasn’t that many days but for a longer sail we might need to take longer shifts. We’ll see how we do it.
The waves made Petra very seasick and she spent her night shifts watching the boat accompanied by a bucket. It was a tough night but still even though all the tiredness and throwing up we got through the night.
When morning came we made sure to eat, drink and rest. As Petra threw up a lot it was important to eat and drink to get energy back. And equally important for Thomas. Even though it is very tiring preparing food in the waves (even if it is only cooking pasta) it is important to do it. It won’t get easier the hungrier you get!
The wind and waves calmed down during the day. We got our energy back but wondered how exhausting our final night at Biscay would be. To our relief it was better than we thought. It was another calm night, and we motor-sailed through the night. We had our shifts and by this time it was no problems falling asleep (the first night was a bit harder). During the night we started seeing the lights from Spain and the winds where considerably warmer than our first night.
We got another beautiful sunrise together with dolphins as we approached Spain. Even though we saw the coastline early we wouldn’t arrive to A Coruna until after lunch. We motor-sailed the last bit as there was almost no wind and found ourselves a spot in the marina. When checking in at the harbor office we showed our passports, ships papers and insurance policy. Earlier when we sailed through northern Europe we have never needed to show any papers (except when we where visited by the coastguards).
So, to summarize sailing over bay of Biscay in October:
We where really lucky to find a good stable weather window so late into the season. Throughout our crossing the forecast turned out to be very accurate and every change happened right on the expected time.
Even though we had a tough second night we weren’t super-tired when we arrived to Spain. And now a couple of days after we feel like it was a good crossing and that doing it again for a longer period (with warmer weather) might not be impossible.
The cold nights are pretty though. We where lucky we only got a little bit of rain, since cold AND rainy nights are even tougher.
Having good food prepared was a necessity, otherwise it would have been really hard.
Having an offline playlist with music and podcasts downloaded was also really nice.