Our last days in Saint Vincent & the Grenadines

After a couple of weeks sailing in the Grenadines islands we returned to Bequia. We had some places we wanted to see before we left Saint Vincent & the Grenadines and we also had a lot of paperwork to prepare before we were gonna leave for Dominica. We did some smaller excursions around Bequia, but mostly we prepared for our sail to Dominica.

With Corona it is a lot more paperwork leaving and entering countries, but not impossible. We contacted an agent in Dominica, took an exit test in Bequia and got approval to do the entry quarantine in Dominica. We also bought some food and made sure we had entertainment downloaded for the days in quarantine.

Dominica research with Lady Ann and Sanuti.
Visiting the boat chandlery in Bequia.

We also had some time for fun stuff before we left, not only work. We played volleyball on the beach, had a bonfire evening and went to a wholeroasted pig party. At the bonfire evening we met Laura Dekker, she is the youngest person to solo-circumnavigate the world. Very cool to meet her! 🙂

Beach volleyball, followed up by a…
… bonfire!
Lunch with some nice company.
Also went on a whole-roasted-pig “party”, which was really delicious!

We stayed in Saint Vincent and the Grenadines for about five weeks, which was really nice! One thing this pandemic has done is to make it harder to travel between countries but in our case that has mostly been a good thing. If we would be able to move between the islands as you usually can do then we probably would have stressed through the islands so that we would be able to explore as much as possible. By staying longer in one place you get to now it better and also start to know some of the locals and you start to get rid of the tourist stamp.

Our courtesy flag was quite worn out by the time we were ready to leave SVG.

Thought we would list our favorite places in the Grenadines, which you shouldn’t miss if you sail there. So here goes our favorites:

  • Salt Whistle Bay, Mayreau
  • Tobago Cays
  • Chatham Bay, Union Island
  • Port Elizabeth Bay, Bequia

Not necessarily in that order, they all offer quite different things.

We really liked SVG and glad that we stayed there for so long, but we were also really excited about our next island, Dominica!

A lot of fish and birds at beautiful Chatham Bay

Before we headed back to Bequia to prepare to leave for Dominica, we had one more place we wanted to visit in the Grenadines; Chatham Bay at Union island. We did the short sail from Mayreau to Chatham bay and anchored really close to the beach. We got a pro tip from our friend Lasse at Sandvita who has sailed in the Caribbean many years that close to the beach was best. He also said that it is deep close to the beach so nothing to worry about.

 

When we were anchored we decided to take a walk up the hill and check the area out.

Chatham bay from above

A turtoise up on the hill.

It was a lot of cows up on the hill.
A swamp near one of the restaurants, only bad thing about Chatham Bay – a lot of mosquitos!
Using the wifi to update the blog!

Chatham Bay was a really pretty place and it was so much animal life, a lot of fish jumping in the water and birds flying around, diving and catching the fish. A lot of pelicans and other birds also, but don’t know what species they were.

Trying to catch one of all fishes jumping around in the water around the boat, but with no luck.
Starfish under our boat.
And two more!
Walking the pretty beach.
A pelican relaxing in the water.
Boat full of peilcans and Anne-Mon in the background. 
Very clear water!

We also hung out at the beach bar and snorkelled. We snorkelled on the north side of the bay and it was a lot of fish there. Big schools just passing by, very cool to see. Will share more of that in a future video

Back to Tobago Cays and fancy resort visit

After our pretty short visit at Union island we decided to sail back to Tobago Cays. The reason was that it would be less winds for a few days and we really liked it out there, so thought it was a good opportunity to have a few more days out there.

It was very few boats out at Tobago Cays this time; think it was only four or five at the big anchorage behind Horseshoe reef and three or four in the strait. We spent the time at Tobago Cays similar as we had at our first visit. We snorkelled, explored the islands we didn’t explore on our first visit and had another lobster barbecue.

A hermit crab on the beach 🙂
Thomas was really, really excited about helping out preparing the lobsters…
Lobster crew!

We got some crabs from Romeo (he arranges the lobster bbq at Tobago Cays) that we had for lunch one day.
The crabs were actually really good, but the biggest highlight was all the fish that gathered around the boat when we through in crab pieces. We had several rays, a wahoo and a lot of small fish!

After four nights we sailed to Mayreau, as we were invited for pizzas and drinks at a resort at Trousant Bay. The resort has just been built and not completely finished and will probably open for real when everything with the pandemic has calmed down. Now it was open for cruisers and locals, which came for drinks there in the evening. But now it was open for us, we had some really good pizzas, delicious drinks, swam in the pool and hung out at the pool bar. We spent two nights here and we spent more money those two days than we had done in a while but it was worth it J One thing that was also really fun with our visit there was that Chris Doyle was there at the same time. He has written a lot of guide books for the Caribbean and we have some of his books.

Some luxurious days at a resort at Mayreau!
Hangout in the bar with other cruisers 🙂
Cheers!
Exotic drinks in the pool bar.
And cute dogs

FOR SWEDISH FOLLOWERS: Vi har börjat göra lite Youtube-filmer för att dela med oss lite mer av vår resa. Alla filmer samlar vi under den här FLIKEN, men går också att hitta om man söker på Sailing Anne-Mon på Youtube :).

Dog shelter and hikes

After Tobago Cays we headed towards Union island. We anchored outside Clifton and when we entered we got to see some cool kitesurfing tricks. Union island is popular for kitesurfing and would have been really nice to try, but unfortunately a bit too expensive for us.

We had to find some cheaper entertainment, so we went on some small hikes on the island and also visited a dog shelter, Salty Paws. Really nice to see a place that takes care of dogs that haven’t had an easy life.

At the dog shelter.

The dog Peanut, very happy fella!
So cute!

Cute baby goats in the forest

We walked up to one of the peaks on Union island with a nice view of the anchorage at Frigate island
After hike drinks with Sanuti.
The next day we went on another hike, up to the peak next to Clifton.

The colorful market in Clifton!

Having paradise for ourselves (almost)

After our stop in Mayreau we motored a short bit out to the National Park Tobago Cays. This is a very popular place to visit and what we heard most years it is very crowded. Both with cruisers, charter boat and big cruise ships anchoring nearby. But as it is a very unusual year, it was not crowded at all! Not empty either, think it was around ten boats there when we arrived and in the time we were there it was between 20-30 at most. As it is a very big anchorage area this meant it was almost empty.

Already on the way out we were amazed of how turquoise the water was!

On the way out to Tobago Cays, amazing water color! You can also see the mangrove trees by the beach. 

We passed through the strait next to Petit Rameau to see how it looked like there. It was a strait filled with turquoise water with a beautiful beach with palm trees at Petit Rameau and small beaches with mangrove trees around them at the island on the opposite side (don’t remember the name of that island).  We continued to the main anchorage, turquoise water protected from the ocean swell by the horseshoe reef. You pay a small fee to anchor here that is collected by the park rangers.

We anchored in the turquoise water. A lot of the boats were anchored on a line behind the reef and we sailed past them into a bit shallower water to really get the turquoise feeling. You can see the waves breaking at the horse shoe reef protecting the anchorage. 
Anchored in paradise!

The first thing we had to do once we had anchored was to go snorkeling. There are a lot of turtles in the area and we didn’t get disappointed, we almost immediately saw them. And not only one, we saw several turtles around us! Super cool!

Snorkeling with turtles!

We had a chill night and played some games together with Sanuti.

Our second day out at Tobago Cays we continued snorkeling and explored one of the islands. On the island we saw some iguanas and our feet got sore by the warm soil and sharp rocks as we swam to the island and walked barefoot.

In the evening it was time for a lobster barbecue with Sanuti and Blue Beryl.

Dinghy anchored at the beach where we were supposed to have the lobster barbecue.
Watching lobsters getting prepared.

Predrinks before the lobsters.
Lobsters on the grill!
Everyone had to take a picture of the lobsters xD
Nom nom nom!

The lobsters were delicious! Really something we have to try to do back home. The following day we took our dinghies out to the island Petit Tabac outside the Horseshoe reef. This island was one of the filming locations for the first Pirates of the Caribbean – movies. You know the scene when Jack Sparrow and Elizabeth Turner gets stranded on an island and the “why is the rum gone?” scene is?

Petit Tabac!
Recognize this place from the movie?
Maybe now?

We had brought some stuff to be able to do some coconut hunting, so shortly after arriving to the island we got started.

Trying to take sown some coconuts.
Starting to get a big pile!
Pretty big coconut
Then it was time to get to work…

A lot of work getting into the nut!
Finished!
Then it was time for a lunch break…
…and we found this amazing lunch spot.

We continued with a walk around the island (not so big so that went quite fast).

We jumped in the water and snorkeled on the outside of the reef protecting Petit Tabac. Saw some wildlife, on the picture is a barracuda we almost swam right into.
We also saw a stingray.

We stayed at Tobago Cays five nights in total and the rest of the time we spent snorkeling, having beach drinks, exploring the small islands and so on. Below follows some more snapshots from Tobago Cays.

Dinghy secured in a palm tree.
Rain incoming!
Beach drinks with Sanuti, Blue Beryl and Jollity.
A possum trying to find some scraps.
Walking around Petit Rameau.
Beautiful view over the anchorage in Tobago Cays, with Petit Tabac in the background.