Deck leakage repair – part one

Last spring we went over some of our deck leakages and did some repairs on them. It has been everything from vents, small windows and stanchions for the guardrail. We have an old boat and water seems to be pouring in wherever you start open something up, and step by step we find them and try to fix them. Next up is to fix some leakages through the stanchions for the guardrail.

We did some leak repairs for two of the stanchions last year, when we did some repairs to them. But it was half-done, by only adding new sealant around the screws and we are not completely satisfied with this. We also want to go over all of the stanchions and make a proper sealing and protect water from sipping into the sandwich core.

The weather forecast showed that it was a big high pressure system moving in over Scandinavia with a promise of warm (and dry weather) so perfect time to fix these leakages once and for all.

We have a sandwich hull, so the idea for this fix is that we will remove the stanchions and the screws through the hull. Drill bigger holes and also remove as much we can of the core material close to the holes. After that we will seal the holes from the inside and fill them up with epoxy. And finally drill new holes in the epoxy and seal them with butyl tape, which we used for the two stanchions we did repairs for a while back seemed to keep the water out. Our main goal with this epoxy solution is that if water happens to get past the butyl tape it at least won’t disappear into the  core material of the hull.

We started with removing the stanchions and to drill up the holes.

deck leakage repair
We used a insex key to remove the core material around the holes.
Nice and open holes.
This wasn’t the first holes made into the deck of the boat, several old holes that we will seal as well.

When we removed the stanchion screws most of the holes through deck was wet, so it is a good thing that we go through this. As they were pretty wet and we had this nice high pressure system above us right now, we let the holes be open to dry out before sealing them with epoxy (with some extra help of different heating devices as well as the sun).

After the holes were dry it was time to start filling them up with epoxy. As we had opened up the holes a lot, we also wanted to have som fiberglass in the mix as well for some extra strength.

Cutting up fiberglass pieces that we put in the holes.
deck leakage repair
Small pieces of fiberglass in the holes.

We drilled through the entire hull and to prevent the epoxy from running through we mixed some epoxy filler and added on the inside of the boat.

Epoxy filler on the inside to prevent epoxy from running through to the inside.

After the filler had harden it was time to fill up the holes with epoxy. We had bought some cheap medicine syringes at an animal store to use for filling up the holes. This worked very well and we think it will useful to have a couple of these syringes in the future as well for smaller epoxy repairs.

We bought syringes at an animal store which we used to fill up the holes with epoxy. Worked really well, great tip if you are gonna do something similar. Almost no spill and mess.
deck leakage repair
Adding epoxy into the holes using the syringes we bought.
deck leakage repair
Epoxy in the holes, ready to harden.

The holes sucked up a lot of epoxy and we had to go around and fill the holes up as time went by to make sure they were properly filled.

Next up for this will be to prepare to attach the stanchions once again. But more about that later on. We will also go over all our chainplates and other things on deck that goes through the hull to at least keep most water out.


More freezer progress

Finally we have finalized our own-made freezer for our sailboat, and we are really happy with it! It was quite bigger than we first thought and it looks really fresh. We are still a bit unsure if the cooler we bought will be able to keep temperatures below freezing but if not we just have an extra cooling box. As mentioned before is a Danfoss BD35F compressor with a plate evaporator that is as good as new.

Earlier we had started adding insulation into the freezer and after that was done we started covering the surface with white-painted aluminum.

Aluminum surface added inside the freezer/cooling box. We bent the bottom piece to match the shape of the bottom, as we had shaped that so that the bottom is horizontal.
The top part of the freezer where the plate evaporator for the cooler will be attached on.
As said above, the bottom piece of the aluminum was bent. For the remaining pieces we added marine sealant.
The stern cabin starting to come together.
Testing out how the refrigeration unit should be positioned. We have built a stand for the cooler and will also have a cover for the cooler so that we can use the storage without damaging the cooler.
The evaporating plate attached to the top and the refrigeration unit in position in the storage space next to the freezer.
The evaporating plate is attached to the top with some distance in between.
The cover for the cooler also in position, now we only need a nice surface on the top, a lid for the freezer and some ventilation for the refrigeration unit.

If you want more posts about our freezer and how we built it, all posts about it can be found under the tag freezer.

Replacing the rotten wood

As we mentioned a couple of weeks ago we found another leakage (click HERE) that we thought was in one of the hatches and the water had found is way down to the plywood below where it got stuck due to the styrofoam placed on the plywood. As mentioned in the other post our hull is sandwich material, but the core is not wooden in the structural parts of the hull. And from the aft cabin a part of the hull can be seen, as the deck continues in under the cockpit. The cockpit is then kind of built on top of the hull. Hard to explain, but the point is that we can feel the edge of the hull and it feels really strong.

To the left – a part of our deck and to the right – our hull below waterline. The red part is just plastic (according to some documentation we found the outer part of the sandwich hull is classified as strong enough for this boat), then a synthetic core material and finally a last layer of plastic. So it is pretty thick hull.

But the more we have started removing the rotten wood we have found weaknesses and also the leakage, or at least one of them. The leakage is in the starboard hatch in the cockpit wall and right next to our starboard winch and a mooring bollard. And at some attachments the plastic is really, really thin. So we will not only repair the leakage but also reinforce this part. On port side we don’t seem to have the same issue, but maybe we will do some reinforcements there as well, just in case.

Working on removing the rotten wood in the roof in the aft cabin.
Rotten wood, as you might imagine, the smell was pretty bad…
It was also very wet and we are working hard to get this part dry with a temporary fix for the leakage (duct tape, yay!) and using a cabin heater.

Some water had also found its way down to the wall between one of our big hatches in the cockpit and the aft cabin. Probably some water had been standing in that hatch and made the wall between rot. There was an old drainage hole into the storage under the aft bed that was sealed. We removed the rotten part of the wall to replace with new fresh wood. We also drilled a new drainage hole from the storage hatch but this time we drilled it in direction towards the bilge instead of into the storage.

Removing the rotten part of the wall between one of the storage hatches under the seat in the cockpit.
Bye bye, rotten piece!

We cut the beam that followed the hull further up and the wall it self below so that the cut wouldn’t be at the same place. This way it becomes stronger, which will be good even though this is not what holds the boat together.

Making new pieces.
The beam in position, seen from inside the aft cabin.
Same, but this time seen from the hatch in the cockpit. Here you can see that the beam was cut further up than the wall. If you look really closely you can see the new drainage hole in the corner at the bottom.
Now we just need to paint this wall to make it look nicer and to protect it.

Will try to make a new blog post soon again, we have been pretty busy with a lot of stuff and also we mostly been finishing the interior work, so not so much new stuff anyway. We are very, very soon finished with that so at that point we will have some before and after pictures to show and we will also start with other jobs.

Making roof panels for sailboat

After we have finished with the mahogany strips we started making roof panels so that the roof would match our beautiful new mahogany.

We bought a fake lather boat interior material at the boat store. We choose to buy the thinest version of the material, which was 1.2 mm thick. The reason for not choosing a thicker version was that the surface we want to attach them onto will be pretty smooth and then there is no need to have a thicker, more forgiving material.

preparing for roof panels on sailboat
First we have glued up pieces of wood onto the roof, which we will attach the roof panels onto.
Next step is to fit the plywood and cut it in the rights shape. We have used plywood that is WBP treated (weather and boil proof). We used 7 mm thick plywood so that the roof panels will be firm, if using thinner plywood it could start loosing it’s shape and start hanging and that we didn’t want. This thickness we choose feels very stable right now and hopefully it will stay that way.
Then we made an edge and fixed it with glue onto the plywood. And spend some time sanding it to have a smooth edge.
Next up is to glue the fake leather fabric onto the plywood.
This is the glue we have used. It is used for gluing bathroom carpets so very good for humid areas.
boat interior material onto our roof panels for the sailboat
Attaching the fake leather onto the plywood and making sure that there is no irregularities that will show later.
Finally we attached the edges with staples.
spotlights roof panel sailboat
We have also bought some spotlights we added onto the roof panels. Nice to be able to light the boat up 🙂
roof panels for sailboat
Some roof panels waiting to be set up in the sailboat! 🙂

Now we will just have to set up all the roof panels in the sailboat and after we are finished with that we are pretty much done with the interior (except some final fixes around the freezer and our fixes for the wood that was damage by a leakage). At least we want focus so much more on that right now before our departure but there are still a lot of things we want to improve but that will have to wait until the future.

We have also recently worked with repairing the damage done by the wood that was rotted, working with the freezer. More about that soon 🙂

Budget långfärdssegling till Karibien

This is a Swedish post about our budget for our sailing adventure, for English version of this, click HERE.

Här kommer en liten sammanställning om vår budget för vår långfärdssegling. Vi har sökt runt en del på internet för att få uppfattning om hur mycket pengar man ska räkna med. Men det är svårt att få ett bra svar eftersom det beror en del på vilken levnadsstandard man har, vilken båt man har osv. Vi har försökt samla på oss så mycket information som möjligt, och applicerat det på våra levnadsstandarder och vår båt och tänkte dela med oss av det här. Och sen i framtiden dela med oss av hur fel det vart, för det kommer det garanterat att vara… 😉

Först, lite kommentarer om oss, våra planer och vår båt:

  • Vi planerar att vara borta 13 månader, mer om vår resväg finns under About->The Plan.
  • Vi har en gammal segelbåt så vi kommer antagligen behöva lägga en del tid och pengar på att hålla den vid liv. Precis som nu räknar vi med att göra det mesta själva för att spara pengar.
  • Vi äter inte ute på restaurang så ofta hemma i Sverige och tänker försöka göra lite liknande när vi är ute och seglar.
Månadskostnad 7’000
Totalt 91’000

Precis som vi sa ovan äter vi oftast inte så mycket på resturang här hemma i Sverige, och vi kommer äta de flesta måltiderna på båten. Men, vi vill fortfarande äta god mat, smaka lokala rätter och ta en öl eller två på en strandbar så en del pengar kommer säkerligen gå till mat ändå…

Vi vill göra vårt bästa för att spara pengar på mat, genom att fånga vår egen fisk, köpa mycket mat där det är billigare och laga så mycket mat vi kan från grunden. När vi beräknade denna budgetposten har vi försökt hitta prisindex för olika länder jämfört med Sverige och tänkt på hur mycket vi spenderar på mat just nu och har också försökt estimera hur mycket vi kommer äta ute.

Denna beräkning innebär att vi kommer äta ute mycket mer än vad vi gör nu och en rätt stor månadskostnad på mat, förhoppningsvis kommer det inte spendera så här mycket på mat, men vi får se… I värst fall om vi spenderar för mycket pengar på mat i början av resan får vi leva på bönor (och fisk) resten av resan.


När vi sökt på internet (och i böcker) vad budgeten för en långfärdssegling bör vara är det många som säger att man bör estimera ungefär 10-20% av båtens värde på underhåll. Vi valde att sätta det till 25%. Vi har en gammal, lite billigare båt så därför valde vi lägga på lite extra här. Vi kommer försöka spara pengar här genom att göra allt jobb själva och också genom allt jobb vi gör nu innan avresa och ha en del reservdelar med oss.

Månadskostnad 2’615
Totalt 34’000

Vi vill antagligen använda personlig reseförsäkring från vårt nuvarande försäkringsbolag. För båten vi vill antagligen endast ha ansvarsförsäkring, vilket inte har varit enkelt för oss att hitta (mer om det kan ni läsa om genom att klicka HÄR).

Månadskostnad 2’500
Totalt 32’500
Cruising feEs & Marinas/ANkring

Vi kommer i största möjliga mån att undvika marinor, men för seglingen genom Norra Europa finns det inte många alternativ. Vi kommer försöka undvika de dyraste så gott vi kan.

För norra Europa (norr om Biscayabukten) vi har antagit att vi vill ligga i marina nästan varje natt (förutom några undantag längs med Sveriges östkust) och efter några internetsökningar har vi estimerat att det kommer kosta runt 250 SEK/natt. Efter att ha korsat Biscaya verkar det finnas fler alternativ att ankra, men vi räknar med att ligga i marina många nätter här också, till ett pris på 200 SEK/natt. Efter vi lämnat Kanarieöarna vill vi bara gå in i marina om det verkligen behövs. På vägen tillbaka när vi seglar igenom Europa igen kommer det åter igen bli många nätter i marinor.

Kostnaden för att segla in och ut ur olika länder (och för Kielkanalen och Caledoniakanalen) är också inkluderad här. De kostnaderna är baserade på internetsökningar (framförallt och är förhoppningsvis någorlunda korrekt för de länder vi planerat att besöka.

Månadskostnad 7’200
Totalt 93’600

Vi vill ju självklart försöka uppleva de ställen vi besöker, för de mesta kommer vi försöka utforska så mycket vi kan till fots eller utnyttja lokaltrafiken för att spara pengar. Men ibland kommer vi kanske vilja hyra en bil eller moped och ta oss längre, besöka ett museum, dyka osv.

Månadskostnad 1’500
Totalt 19’500

Vi hoppas på att kunna segla så mycket som möjligt, men en del av budgeten kommer såklart gå till bränsle, både för segelbåten och dingyn. Vi har stora tankar på Anne-Mon, så vi vill försöka fylla på dem i de länder då bränslekostnaderna inte är så höga.

Månadskostnad 1’600
Totalt 20’800

Här är andra kostnader som vi kommer stöta på, tvättning, shopping och allt annat. Eftersom vi inte kommer vara borta så länge kommer vi inte behöva köpa så mycket ny kläder t.ex.

Månadskostnad 1’100
Totalt 14’300

Och detta är budgeten vi slutar på för vår långfärdssegling för 2 personer som är borta 13 månader. Förutom de kostnader som är relaterade till själva seglingen har vi fasta kostnader hemma som inte kommer försvinna, som tex studentlån och kostnader för vår andra båt. Vi kommer också ha några extra pengar som buffert för oväntade kostnader.

Månadskostnad 22’300
Totalt 290’100


budget långfärdssegling
Vår budget för vår långfärdssegling i ett fint diagram.

Vi kommer fortsätta hålla koll på våra kostnader under seglingen, precis som vi gjort nu med renoveringen, och dela dem på bloggen här sen. Då kommer vi också se hur fel vår budgetestimering har varit.

Om du vill läsa mer om våra renoveringskostnader och kostnad för utrustning så här långt, så kan du besöka sidorna under Costs & Information.

Länkar till andra bloggar om kostnader: